1. Montevideo
Uruguay’s capital is a charming port of entry that contains striking architecture, a vibrant cultural life and in the Ramblas riverside walkway one of South America’s best spots for people watching. Explore the fascinating streets of the rapidly reviving old city by day, then at night dine in one of the restaurants in upscale Pocitos.
2. Asado in the Mercado del Puerto
Uruguay’s beef stands comparison with the more renowned cuts from neighbouring Argentina but crucially Uruguayans are better grillers. In Argentina charcoal is typically used for barbecue while in Uruguay wood is favoured, giving the meat a lovely sweet ‘n’ smoky flavour. Vegetarians beware but a top spot for experiencing a Uruguayan cook-up is the covered market down by Montevideo’s port.
3. Carnival
Like in neighbouring Brazil, carnival is big in Uruguay and the celebrations last a full 40 days, almost as long as Lent itself. The pulsating rhythm is provided by troupes playing candombe, a drum brought over from Africa by slaves over 200 years ago. Montevideo also has a Carnival Museum which explains the celebration’s central role in the country’s cultural life.
4. Estadio Centenario
The centenary stadium was the stage for the first ever football World Cup back in 1930 when the hosts beat favourites Argentina in the final game. Hallowed ground for many Uruguayans, the stadium has a museum but far more enlightening of the importance of football for the locals would be to attend a match by the city’s two big teams Peñarol and Nacional.
5. Colonia del Sacramento
This sleepy town across the River Plate from Buenos Aires was once bitterly contested by Spain and Portugal during the colonial era. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it exudes a laid-back charm with its bougaivillea-clad colonial era buildings housing fine restaurants, craft shops and boutique hotels that are ideal for total relaxation.
6. Punta del Este
During the southern summer, one of the hottest beaches scenes in all South America is to be found at Uruguay’s glamorous Punta del Este resort. Long a favourite destination of Buenos Aires’ smart set, in recent years there has been an invasion of Brazilians drawn to a beach party that seems to run day and night all through high season.
7. The Atlantic Coast
Further north the Atlantic Coast attracts wind sport enthusiasts and surfers and increasing number of foreign tourists looking for a more relaxed beach experience than the one at Punta del Este. If it is a more bohemian vibe you are after, head for the hippyish resort of Punta del Diablo where after a day lounging in a hammock you can stroll down to one of the beach shacks for a fish supper.
8. Cabo Polonia
A nature reserve with a sea lion colony, this is another of the hidden charms of Uruguay’s coastline. Hard to get to, the trip is worth the effort especially in spring when austral whales play offshore. Most of the cabins for rent here have no electricity, meaning this is the ideal spot for disconnecting from digital life and reconnecting with mother nature.